Sports & Competition
Brooklyn's Place des Ftes is a Michelin-starred team's answer to a wine bar
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Published in Food and Wine on Tuesday, July 29th 2025 at 17:07 GMT by Time Out🞛 This publication is a summary or evaluation of another publication 🞛 This publication contains editorial commentary or bias from the source
The neighborhood wine bar from the Oxalis team has come into its own
Discovering Place des Fêtes: Brooklyn's Charming Ode to French Wine Bars
In the heart of Clinton Hill, Brooklyn, where tree-lined streets meet a vibrant mix of historic brownstones and modern creative energy, sits Place des Fêtes—a restaurant that effortlessly captures the essence of a classic French wine bar while infusing it with a distinctly New York flair. Opened in late 2021 by a team of seasoned hospitality professionals, including chef Nico Bitar and wine expert Jorge Riera, this spot has quickly become a neighborhood gem, drawing in locals and food enthusiasts from across the city with its unpretentious vibe, exceptional natural wine selection, and a menu that celebrates seasonal, seafood-forward dishes. Named after a Parisian metro station known for its lively public square, Place des Fêtes embodies that same spirit of communal celebration, making it a perfect destination for everything from casual weeknight drinks to intimate date nights.
Walking into Place des Fêtes feels like stepping into a cozy European bistro transported to Brooklyn. The space is intimate, with just a handful of tables inside and a charming outdoor patio that buzzes with energy during warmer months. Exposed brick walls, warm lighting from vintage fixtures, and a long wooden bar create an inviting atmosphere that's both rustic and refined. There's no over-the-top decor here; instead, the focus is on the people and the plates. On any given evening, you'll find a diverse crowd—young professionals unwinding after work, couples sharing bottles of wine, and groups of friends lingering over small plates. The restaurant's design encourages lingering, with comfortable seating that invites you to settle in for hours. It's the kind of place where time slows down, and conversations flow as freely as the wine.
At the core of Place des Fêtes' appeal is its wine program, curated by Jorge Riera, whose expertise shines through in a list that's thoughtful, adventurous, and heavily skewed toward natural and low-intervention wines. Drawing from regions like France's Loire Valley, Burgundy, and Jura, as well as selections from Italy, Spain, and even domestic producers, the wine menu is a treasure trove for oenophiles. Expect bottles that emphasize terroir and minimal additives, with options ranging from crisp, mineral-driven whites to earthy, funky reds. Standouts include a vibrant Chenin Blanc from the Loire that's perfect for pairing with seafood, or a light Gamay that's ideal for sipping on its own. The by-the-glass offerings are equally impressive, often rotating to highlight seasonal finds or lesser-known producers. For those new to natural wines, the staff is incredibly knowledgeable and approachable, offering guidance without any pretension. It's not uncommon to see patrons discovering new favorites, perhaps a pét-nat (pétillant naturel) that's bubbly and refreshing, adding a festive sparkle to the meal.
But Place des Fêtes isn't just a wine bar—it's a culinary destination where the food menu, helmed by chef Nico Bitar, complements the drinks with precision and creativity. Bitar, who honed his skills at acclaimed spots like Oxalis in nearby Crown Heights, brings a French-inspired approach that's light, fresh, and focused on high-quality ingredients. The menu is concise, emphasizing shareable small plates that encourage grazing rather than heavy entrees. Seafood takes center stage, reflecting the restaurant's nod to coastal French cuisine, but with innovative twists that incorporate local, seasonal produce.
Start with the raw bar selections, which are a highlight. The oysters, sourced from pristine waters like those off Prince Edward Island or the East Coast, arrive impeccably fresh, served with a classic mignonette or a house-made hot sauce that adds a subtle kick. For something more indulgent, the clams casino reimagines the retro dish with tender clams baked under a blanket of herbed breadcrumbs, bacon, and peppers—crispy on top, briny and succulent underneath. It's a dish that evokes nostalgia while feeling utterly contemporary. Moving beyond shellfish, the menu ventures into inventive territory with items like the smoked trout dip, a creamy spread laced with horseradish and served with house-made crackers. It's smoky, tangy, and addictive, pairing beautifully with a chilled white wine.
For heartier options, the grilled prawns are a must-try. Marinated in garlic and herbs, then charred to perfection, they arrive with a side of aioli that's rich yet balanced. The kitchen's vegetable dishes shine as well, proving that Place des Fêtes isn't solely about seafood. A standout is the charred cabbage, which transforms the humble vegetable into something extraordinary—smoky, tender, and dressed with a tahini yogurt sauce that adds creaminess and depth. It's a testament to Bitar's ability to elevate simple ingredients. Meat lovers aren't left out; the steak tartare is prepared with grass-fed beef, finely chopped and mixed with capers, cornichons, and a quail egg yolk, offering a luxurious bite that's both classic and refined.
One of the menu's more playful offerings is the "frites" section, featuring not just traditional French fries but creative variations like potato pavé—thinly sliced potatoes layered, pressed, and fried to crispy perfection. Dipped in a house-made bearnaise or ketchup, they're the ultimate bar snack. Desserts, while limited, provide a sweet finish without overwhelming the palate. The chocolate pot de crème is silky and intense, with a hint of sea salt that cuts through the richness, while a seasonal fruit tart might feature whatever's fresh from the market, like summer berries or autumn pears.
What sets Place des Fêtes apart from other Brooklyn eateries is its commitment to sustainability and locality. Ingredients are sourced from nearby farms and purveyors, ensuring freshness and supporting the community. The restaurant's ethos extends to its operations, with a focus on minimal waste and ethical practices. This mindful approach resonates with diners who appreciate transparency in their food choices.
Pricing at Place des Fêtes is reasonable for the quality, with small plates ranging from $12 to $25, and wines by the glass starting around $10. A full meal for two, including a bottle of wine, might set you back $100-$150, making it accessible for a special night out without breaking the bank. Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends, as the intimate space fills up quickly. The restaurant operates Tuesday through Sunday, with hours typically from 5pm to 11pm, though it's wise to check for any changes.
In a city overflowing with dining options, Place des Fêtes stands out for its authenticity and warmth. It's not trying to be the flashiest spot in town; instead, it excels in creating memorable experiences through thoughtful food, exceptional wines, and a welcoming atmosphere. Whether you're a wine aficionado eager to explore natural varietals or simply someone looking for a cozy spot to unwind, this Clinton Hill haven delivers on all fronts. As Brooklyn continues to evolve, places like this remind us of the joy in simple pleasures—good company, great drinks, and dishes that linger in your memory long after the last bite. If you haven't yet made the pilgrimage to Place des Fêtes, consider this your invitation to join the fête.
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[ https://www.timeout.com/newyork/restaurants/place-des-fetes ]