Sports and Competition
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Burgers and beer bring historic buildings back to life at Fairbanks, Big Ditch

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  It was the humble hamburger amid the sea of fancy food at the new Fairbanks restaurant inside Lewiston''s Frontier House that brought the most delight. It felt like a wink.

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Buffalo's Iconic Chicken Wings: A Deep Dive into the City's Culinary Crown Jewel


Buffalo, New York, holds an undisputed claim to fame in the world of American cuisine: it's the birthplace of the chicken wing. What started as a humble bar snack in the 1960s has evolved into a global phenomenon, but nowhere is the art of the wing perfected like in the Queen City itself. This comprehensive exploration delves into the rich history, diverse styles, and standout establishments that make Buffalo's chicken wing scene a must-experience for food enthusiasts. From crispy, saucy classics to innovative twists, the city's offerings reflect a blend of tradition and creativity that keeps locals and visitors coming back for more.

The story of Buffalo wings begins at the Anchor Bar, a legendary spot on Main Street that claims to have invented the dish in 1964. According to lore, Teressa Bellissimo, the bar's co-owner, deep-fried some leftover chicken wings and tossed them in a spicy sauce made from butter, hot sauce, and vinegar to feed her son and his friends late one night. The result was an instant hit, and the Anchor Bar has been serving them ever since. Today, it's a pilgrimage site for wing lovers, drawing crowds from around the world. Their wings are known for their generous size, crispy skin, and that signature tangy heat. Served with celery sticks and blue cheese dressing—a non-negotiable accompaniment—the Anchor Bar's medium wings strike a perfect balance of spice and flavor, making them a benchmark for authenticity.

But Buffalo's wing culture extends far beyond this origin story. The city boasts hundreds of spots, each with its own take on the classic. Duff's Famous Wings, with locations in Orchard Park and Amherst, is often hailed as a fierce rival to the Anchor Bar. Founded in 1946, Duff's gained wing notoriety in the 1960s and prides itself on a sauce that's bolder and hotter than most. Their "death sauce" is not for the faint of heart, packing intense heat that builds gradually. What sets Duff's apart is the emphasis on portion size; a single order can feed a small group, with wings that are plump, juicy, and fried to golden perfection. Patrons rave about the charred wings, a unique offering where the wings are grilled after frying for an extra layer of smokiness. Paired with their creamy blue cheese, it's a sensory experience that embodies Buffalo's no-nonsense approach to comfort food.

Venturing into South Buffalo, Gabriel's Gate stands out as a hidden gem in a historic 1860s building that once served as a gatehouse. This cozy tavern offers wings that are consistently praised for their crispiness and well-balanced sauce. The medium sauce here is a crowd favorite, with just the right amount of kick without overwhelming the palate. What makes Gabriel's special is the ambiance—think wood-paneled walls, a roaring fireplace, and a neighborhood vibe that feels like stepping back in time. It's a place where locals gather to watch Bills games, munching on wings that are fried fresh and served piping hot. For those seeking variety, their barbecue wings provide a sweeter alternative, glazed with a tangy-sweet sauce that contrasts beautifully with the traditional hot variety.

No discussion of Buffalo wings would be complete without mentioning the role of the city's sports culture. Wings and football go hand in hand, especially during Buffalo Bills season. Places like Bar-Bill Tavern in East Aurora capture this spirit perfectly. Established in 1967, Bar-Bill is renowned for its honey butter barbecue wings, but their hot wings are the real stars—crispy, saucy, and available in varying heat levels. The tavern's no-frills setting, with picnic tables and a dive-bar feel, adds to the authenticity. Wing nights here are legendary, often featuring specials that draw long lines. Similarly, Nine-Eleven Tavern in South Buffalo, named after its address, offers wings that are lauded for their homemade sauce, which has a vinegary tang that's distinctly Buffalo. The wings are large, meaty, and fried without batter, allowing the natural flavors to shine through.

Innovation is also alive in Buffalo's wing scene. While purists stick to the classics, newer establishments are pushing boundaries. For instance, Gene McCarthy's in the Old First Ward combines traditional wings with craft beer pairings. Their wings are smoked before frying, infusing a subtle smokiness that elevates the dish. The sauce options range from classic medium to creative flavors like garlic parmesan or mango habanero, appealing to adventurous eaters. Meanwhile, in the trendy Elmwood Village, Forty Thieves Kitchen & Bar experiments with global influences, offering Korean-inspired gochujang wings alongside the standard Buffalo style. These fusion takes highlight how the wing has adapted to modern tastes while honoring its roots.

Beyond bars and taverns, Buffalo's pizzerias often double as wing havens. La Nova Pizzeria, a staple since 1957, claims to sell more wings than anyone in the city—over a million pounds annually. Their wings are jumbo-sized, with a sauce that's thick and clingy, ensuring every bite is flavorful. Options include suicidal hot for heat seekers or mild for those easing in. Bocce Club Pizza, another local icon, pairs its famous square-cut pizza with wings that are crispy and sauced to order. The honey mustard variety here is a sleeper hit, blending sweetness with a subtle spice.

The cultural significance of wings in Buffalo can't be overstated. They're more than food; they're a social ritual. Wing festivals, like the National Buffalo Wing Festival held annually at Highmark Stadium, celebrate this heritage with competitions, tastings, and thousands of attendees. The event features over 100 styles from vendors nationwide, but Buffalo's own always steal the show. It's a testament to the city's pride in its invention, with proceeds benefiting local charities.

For home cooks or those unable to visit, replicating Buffalo wings involves key elements: fresh chicken wings (flats and drums), a deep fry at 375 degrees for crispiness, and a sauce of equal parts melted butter and Frank's RedHot sauce. Blue cheese dressing, made with crumbled cheese, mayo, sour cream, and a dash of Worcestershire, completes the ensemble. Yet, nothing beats the real thing in Buffalo, where the air is thick with the aroma of frying oil and spice.

In terms of health considerations, while wings are indulgent, many spots now offer baked or grilled versions to cater to lighter preferences. Nutritional tweaks, like using Greek yogurt in dressings, make them more accessible. Still, the allure lies in the full-fat, full-flavor experience.

Buffalo's wing landscape is vast and varied, from dive bars to upscale eateries. Other notables include Kelly's Korner in North Buffalo, where the wings are extra crispy and the sauce has a cult following; Elmo's in Getzville, famous for its double-dipped wings that get an extra sauce bath post-frying; and the Blackthorn Restaurant & Pub in South Buffalo, offering Cajun-spiced varieties. Each spot contributes to the tapestry, ensuring there's a wing for every taste.

Ultimately, what makes Buffalo wings special is their simplicity and the passion behind them. In a city that endures harsh winters and fervent sports loyalties, wings provide comfort and community. Whether you're a first-timer at the Anchor Bar or a regular at a neighborhood joint, diving into a basket of these saucy delights is to taste a piece of Buffalo's soul. As the city continues to evolve, its wings remain a timeless staple, inviting all to partake in this flavorful tradition. If you're planning a trip, map out a wing crawl—start at the classics, venture to the innovators, and end with a full belly and a new appreciation for why Buffalo reigns supreme in the wing world. (Word count: 1,128)

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